Moving In

I have spoken with Kirstin and offered to update a bit, as she is uncertain when she will be able to get to an internet site.

She had a fun, though most unusual Christmas with the other PCV, in the heat of Muslim Burkina Faso. They enchanged White Elephant gifts, and did a Secret Santa. She also hoarded several packages which arrived earlier so she had something to open. She had amazingly left packages for her parents hidden in her bedroom, so we had something to open and remember other holidays. I know she is eager to celebrate the NEW YEAR with friends, and perhaps the Orthodox Christmas with a home made feast.

Early on Dec 26 she took a public bus, mini-bus, and PC transport in transit to her village. After two days travel, she arrived safely to her village to a warm welcome. She was greeted by a friendly crowd, and moved in to her new home. She describes two small dark rooms with a courtyard and shaded porch. She has no furniture yet, but hopes to meet a carptenter soon. She will need a table, chairs, shelves etc as the rooms are cement, and very empty. I know she is eager to paint, hang up things as she makes it feel like home. She finally will have access to all her things, and hopes to get everything out of the suitcases.

The village of about 5000 has a market every three days, and Kirsitn in eager to shop and begin cooking. She still has many items necessary for basic functioning to purchase, but is well on her way to settling in. She had been told there is internet at the local school, but it is now school holiday so will check this out later.

Kirstin promises to take pictures, and post as soon as possible. I know we are all eager to hear more, as she continues this adventure

MOM.

Christmas

I spent today busily shopping for my new house and will continue getting more things tomorrow. I have already purchased: a cot, a stovetop, pot to make into a dutch oven, nesting pots for cooking, mixing bowl, plates, cups, silverware, grater, strainer, and a metal cantine to store my food so the mice and bugs cant enjoy it! I still need a gas tank for the stove, another cantine for clothes, buckets for laundry and carrying water, big plastic garbage can for storing water, and basins for washing dishes. These are just the basics for my house and I am sure I will continue furnishing my house for a while. I also need tables, chairs, and benches but hope to get those made in my village or the next town over. I also bought a few Christmas presents. It felt very different than my usual Christmas shopping since it was 90 degrees out and the market wasnt very busy unlike the malls at home this time of year! I have seen a few random Christmas decorations but no other signs that the holidays are quickly approaching!

Since all of the newest BF volunteers are going to be together in Ouahigouya for Christmas we have tried to make the day special. We have already organized Secret Santa and White Elephant exchanges for Christmas day and I have horded three packages that I received in the last two weeks in order to have some presents to open on Christmas. We have organized a catered dinner at a hotel in town owned by a Lebanese woman so we are expecting an amazing meal but probably far from traditional for my family! Still there have been no stockings, cookies, Glogg, decorated tree, lights, snow, carols, or family so it’s not really feeling like the Christmas season. I know its going to be a hard day but I have so much to look forward to as I enter this next stage in my life as a volunteer.

I am leaving Ouahigouya bright and early at 6 am the morning after Christmas, while everyone in the U.S. is getting bargains at Target, to catch my bus to Ouaga followed by another bus to Tenkodogo. I will spend the night there before being dropped off in village on the morning of the 27th.

I am not sure when I will get back online but hear that my district capital does have a cyber café and I will be going there to visit the district medical center and doing some food shopping. I heard that my village has good cell phone reception so feel free to call or text. I also will be trying to go to Ouaga in a few weeks or have someone get my mail for me and I would love to have a note from you waiting in my new mailbox! I am keeping the same address but you can change the PCT to PCV now!

Comments

I love getting comments on my blog but don’t receive very many. Let me know what you think about my experiences or any questions you may have. It seems like there isn’t a way to e-mail responses when people leave a comment so please do include your e-mail if you want me to write back! Otherwise do know that I enjoy hearing from you!

Swear-In

I am now an official Peace Corps Volunteer after taking the oath yesterday and swearing-in! The last week has brought a lot of changes and am now waiting impatiently to move to site and really begin my life as a volunteer. After nine weeks of training in French and Bissa languages, medical, safety and security, cross-culture, and health technical sessions and living with a host family while being surround by 32 other American trainees, it is exciting to think about being on my own at site. I am ready to be able to set my own schedule, cook my own meals, have privacy when needed, and actually work in international public health. I reached the required language proficiency level about a month ago so have not been too concerned about this though my French still has a long way to go! I am currently at intermediate mid which is three levels higher than I was at when I arrived. We also had exit tests in each of the sessions but there was no concern about passing those.

This past week was counterpart workshop where all of our counterparts and supervisors from around Burkina Faso came to Ouahigouya to meet us, learn more about the Peace Corps, and set a plan for our first few weeks at site. For health volunteers, our counterparts are the “majors” or head nurses at the village health centers we will work in. Each of us are assigned to a health center where we can work with the staff and community board that overseas the health center to plan programs and activities. My counterpart has worked in the village for six years though he is not from the area. This seems to actually be quite a long time for a staff member to stay in the same community since these are government appointed positions that often involve moving every few years. I am thinking this may mean he is well-liked and respected in the community. Plus he speaks French slowly and clearly for me so I am able to understand much of what he says! The District Medical Officer for Garango where I will be also attended the workshop. He is my supervisor and I will probably try to meet with him every few months and may try to plan some programs at the district level. Karla, my closest PCV neighbor, is also in the same district so we share the same supervisor. My major also was able to share lots of info about my community and their health needs but I want to wait to share my impressions with you since I will be there so soon.

For our swearing-in ceremony many volunteers had comples, complete outfits, made from local pagne material purchased at the market and taken to tailors. There was a wide variety of styles represented but I think we all looked great. The US Ambassador to Burkina attended and spoke at our swear-in along with the several important people from the area and our Country Director. Our host families, counterparts, PC staff, and current volunteers all attended to congratulate us. Usually the swearing-in is held in Ouaga at the Ambassador’s house but for whatever reason it was held in Ouahigouya this year. All of the staff was very excited because everyone that started in our group made it to swear in without ETing --early terminating and returning to the US. We are the first group that all swore-in in at least nine years which is as far back as the staff can remember. It’s exciting to now be actual volunteers for many reasons including the fact that our stipend doubles from about $4 a day to $8 a day. Before we had many meals covered and no home expenses though so the doubling in income is definitely needed!

We are now attending Life Skills Workshop with our counterparts which includes lots of activities to teach about HIV/AIDS. My understanding is that this event is often held after being at site for several months but they decided to hold it earlier in order to allow us to be together for Christmas.

PS I added more pictures to Picaso so check them out at the link to the right!

Contact Info Update

I moved out of my host family this morning and am spending the next 10 days in Ouahigouya before moving to site on Dec 26. Several people have asked about my address since I had originally said my address was only good through December. At this point I have decided to keep using the PC office address since I heard it is kinda expensive to rent a po box. I have a mailbox anyways at the PC office and they can collect my mail. I am thinking I will be going into Ouaga every few weeks so can get my mail then. The only change is that as of Friday when I swear in, I will be a PCV --Peace Corps Volunteer-- not a PCT -Trainee. Please keep sending cards and packages. I really appreciate it!!

In case you forgot:

Kirstin Krudwig, PCV
S/c Corps de la Paix
01 BP 6031
Ouagadougou 01
Burkina Faso
West Africa

Pictures

I am finally trying to get some pictures posted online since I found my cord in my suitcase that has been in storage.






This is a lot of my host family. I think a few people are probably missing since it is a large family but you get the idea.

The rest of the pictures are accessible by the link on the right. It just seems easier to load them in Picasso than on this page.

Tabaski

This is a week full of fetes--holidays or parties--in Burkina Faso. Tabaski was celebrated in Monday here though I have heard that some places celebrated Tuesday or another day. For the last several weeks my family had said it would be on Sunday the 7th but the night before they said that it actually was going to be on Monday. It is an Islamic holiday celebrated 70 days after Ramadan so it does vary every year and doesnt line up with our calendar. It just seemed very strange that no one knew what day to celebrate until a day or two beforehand. Anyways, Tabaski is the Feast of the Sacrifice or the Fete du Muton as my family called it. The holiday is based on the Old Testament story where God asked Abraham to sacrifice his son but he was allowed to substitue a sheep at the last minute. So how is it celebrated you ask? Well we did lots of sacrificing of sheep!!

Everyone --thats all 1200 people that live in my village-- met up in a center open area of town to pray. The men were in the front and the women lined up behind them with children mixed in with parents and some playing in the way back. Everyone prayed together and I stood and watched the community. Afterwards people mingled around, showed off their fancy new clothes they had made for the fete, enjoyed juices and candies that kids were selling. It kind of felt like fourth of July or another holiday where people are hanging out. I reconnected with my host family and headed home with them. It was time for the slaughter. My family of about 50ish people slaughtered three goats and one sheep right in our courtyard basically in front of my house. The men sharpened their knives and the children helped hold down the animals while their necks were slit. They were then cut open and all the parts were divided up and such. I tried watching most of it but the blood got to be a bit much after awhile. It wasnt nearly as bad as I had thought it might be. The cutting up of the animals seemed to be the mens job while the women prepared other food including yams, rice, and vegetables. There was so much food prepared!!! People seemed to eat throughout the day and then in the afternoon the children were given platters with meat chunks on to take to the neighbors, relatives, village leaders, etc. Many people also came to our house to give my host dad a piece of meat. It seems like a big part of the holiday is sharing with those that are important to you. I was a little grossed out by the amount of raw meat that was being passed around and the shaking of hands that went with this because you of course must greet everyone that comes but at the same time loved seeing the connections between community members!!

Later in the afternoon people bathed and changed clothes again into another even nicer outfit and the children went out in groups to ask for a cadeau or gift. They sang a little song and clapped when they came to our house and my dad or someone else would give them small coins. I gave out candy which was also appreciated but I think they preferred money!! The adults also went out to visit friends and I think later at night there was a big dance party. I was tired at that point and had to long bike ride and class the next day so skipped out on the night activities. I did hear music playing long into the night which is unusual in a village without electricity!!

Tommorrow is Indepence Day and Saturday is the tenth anniversary since a well-known journalist was killed so many of the schools are closed all week. I have no other plans for celebration since I still have class but my the kids in my family are excited for the vacation!!

It has gotten much colder here though nowhere like the snow and cold I am hearing about in Wisconsin!! We had about four days that were really chilly and I needed to wear pants and sweatshirt. At night it got down to mid 50s which doesnt sound cold but its 40 degrees colder than what it has been basically every day since I arrived. I think the cold streak has passes since the last two nights were not as chilly.

It doesnt really feel like the American holidays are approaching other than the change in weather. I cant believe Christmas is only two weeks away!! I am a little sad about being away from my family during this time but am hoping that we will be able to celebrate together. Plus I will be busy preparing to move to my site the next day!!

I know I have said it before but I want to reiterate how much I appreciate your cards!! I would love to send lots of letters back but its really hard for me right now because I make about four dollars a day for food, internet, necessities, and postage costs about 1.75 dollars!! I am trying to get some letters out though and will try to send more once I get to site. Please keep sending mail because I love to hear what else is going on in the world!!

Thanksgiving

I hope that all my friends and family were able to have a fantastic Thanksgiving holiday!! It has not really felt much like the fall or November here so definetly did not feel like Thanksgiving when I woke up on Thursday but I ended up having a really great day. The group of trainees rallied together and organized an amazing and fairly authentic meal. Classes ended early so we had time to shop, cook, and relax a bit. A friend and I were put in charge of making the stuffing and were pretty proud of our results. It tasted just like home to me even though we used a stove and couldnt find celery at the market!

We met the chief of Ouahigouya when we first arrived here and he gave us a sheep that we fondly named Turkey. He was fattened up over the last month and slaughtered for our enjoyment. The big meat eaters in our group were worried about not having a real turkey since we heard the birds you get here are super expensive and not very tasty. The ambassador came to our rescue though and donated a real, Butterball turkey. It sounds like a big order had been shipped over for embassy staff and she was kind enough to share one with us. She also gave us several pumpkin pies and canned cranberries. I didnt think I would ever be able to have my favorite Thanksgiving side right out of the can but it happened even in the middle of Burkina Faso!!!

Other amazing side dishes included mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, salad, deviled eggs, bread, green beans, a pumpking/sweet potato dish with oatmeal topping and more that I cant remember. Its sad but two of my favorite things that we had arent even traditional--brownies and M and Ms. One of the PC staff members donated brownie mix and somebody else gave the M and Ms. They were so good and reminders of home!! I guess I have a little bit of a chocolate addiction! I ate way too much food but kept shoveling it in. It was definetly the most satisfying meal I have had in the last six weeks and probably the best tasting Thanksgiving meal ever just because I hadnt had any home-cooked American food since I left. My mom did cook a Thanksgiving meal in August since I would be missing out so I had all the good stuff once this year already. There was something about the teamwork and coming together while in Burkina that made ours so delicious and special!!

No big shopping for me yesterday since we had class but I did hit up the market today and bought pagnes--crazy African print fabric. I am going to get a fantastic outfit made for our swearing in ceremony in three weeks. Training is now coming to a close with two more weeks at our host families followed by ten days in Ouahigouya before moving to our sites. I guess that means Christmas is coming soon as well. I think no Christmas trees or mistletoe this year but hopefully we will be able to pull together another special celebration before moving in separate directions throughout Burkina!

Odds and Ends

This is going to be a disjointed post but I havent blogged in a while and am quickly running out of time on the internet.

My birthday was a week and a half ago and turned out to be pretty disappointing. I was in village so couldnt really celebrate or even spoil myself with expensive junk food from the the small grocery store in the city. Hopefully next year when I turn the big quarter century I will be able to plan a big fete or something!! I did really appreciate all of the cards from friends and family! I feel so removed from life in the US that its wonderful to hear from you. Thanks!!

My family raises animals as I have said before and it appears that it is birthing time as we have had lots of baby goats and sheep including a cute one born on my birthday. I named him Kirstin which my family though was super funny since they dont name animals ever and this one happened to be a boy!

The Harmattan began early this year around my birthday. Usually this doesnt come until December or January but like weather patterns everywhere else, its all screwed up here too. It is very dry and dusty which I think led to me becoming sick last week. I got a sinus infection and cold so was feeling really under the weather. It was my first time sick here though so I have been very lucky compared to many of my fellow trainees that have suffered through lots of diarrhea already. I am better now except for a runny nose and sore throat that I think it more from the dry weather than anything else.

I visited a current volunteer this weekend that lives in a village three km from my village. It was fun to see how she lived. I also was able to visit the site of one of my current trainees since he was nearby. It was exciting to see the house he will be moving into soon. I cannot wait to see my own house and community. One more month to go!!

I wanted to write about Thanksgiving plans but will have to wait to tell you what actual occurs. I want to say thanks for all the great friends and family that have supported me in this adventure and hope you have a great day with your friends and family at home!!

Site Announcement

Yesterday was a big day for the stagiares in Burkina...we got your sites where we will be living for the next two years! They made it into a big deal and had a huge map on the wall with all the villages. I forgot my camera but hopefully I can get a picture from someone else. It was very cool! One person read off a site description and we tried to guess who it was. They called the name and whoevers site it was put a picture of themselves on the map in their town. They then read off the next description and so on until everyone had a new home. I was toward the end and very nervous because so many of the sites sounded great and I would love to go there. We were able to have some input about our desires last week when we interviewed with our APCD--Associate PC Director for Health. We werent promised anything but it felt like they wanted to match us as best as possible so that we will be happy there. Its hard to know what you really want though since we have been here such a short time. I said I probably wanted a larger village where I would have multiple organizations to work with, access to a market and larger town with grocery store so that I can cook lots, would like to be the first volunteer in the community, and wanted to live on my own with a private courtyard. I got almost all my wishes except for the housing situation and dont really know much about that yet. It sounds like I will be in a family compound but have my own house.

I dont think I am suppose to name my specific village for security reasons since this is a public forum. If you are interested in knowing, send me an email and I can tell you. Here is my village description excluding actual name:

Congratulations! You are going to the village of §§§§. Welcome to the region of Tenkodogo and the health district of Garango. You will be living in the home village of the Minister of Foreign Affairs and former Minister of Health--this is the same person. Expectatio nfor the volunteer is high, but we believe that you will meet this expectation and your public health background will help. You will be among the first health volunteers in this region along zith a PST mate in a nearby village! You also have a secondary educatio nPCV nearby. The city of Tenkodogo is easy accessible from your village where you will find such luxuries and a supermarche. The local language is Bissa but Moore is also well spoken.

I also found out that there about 6000 people and I am about 30km from Tenkodogo and probably about 6 km from the next volunteer who is training with me currently. Very excited about this! I have tons of questions of course but will just have to wait until I move there on Dec 26 to find out more! You should be able to find Tenkodogo on a map and probably even Garango. Tenkodogo is on the main road to Togo so many people will pass through when traveling between the two countries.

Drinking, Embassy, & More

Our schedule continues to be jam-packed including several really fun events. We had a field trip to "local drinking establishments" to see and taste the locally-made beverage of choice for many. Dolo is made from either red or white millet with a few other variations and takes a few days to ferment. Usually older women make it and run the "cabarets' where it is sold. When you first arrive, they give you a calabash or bowl made from a bird-house gourd to let everyone in your group taste. This is free but you are then expected to purchase a liter or more to enjoy during your time there. After the first taste, everyone gets their own calabash to drink from. Some described dolo's taste like hard cider while others felt it was more like vinegar. I didn't mind the taste but was a little disgusted by the large number of flies swarming our calabashes. This adventure was followed by a medical session about alcohol safety.

 

On Thursday we had a visit from the Deputy Chief of Mission at the US Embassy in Burkina. We were told that he is basically the second in command. He wanted to meet the new volunteers and see what training was like. The embassy is currently being evaluated so the individual completing the audit from D.C. also visited along with an IT expert from the embassy. It was obvious that everyone was very interested in Peace Corps and supportive of our programs.

 

Friday morning we left early for Ouaga, the capital of Burkina Faso, to make it to a 9 am meeting at the U.S. embassy. The ambassador met with us and again reiterated the importance of Peace Corps in this country and said that we were the true ambassadors of the United States. Several other American employees at the embassy also spoke to us on a variety of topics including what to do if we decide to marry a Burkinabé. We also visited the Peace Corps which was much larger than expected. We spent the last two nights at the PC Transit House which is a place for volunteers to stay in the city when they need a break from their villages. We get four nights away from site a month and many volunteers come into Ouaga or another large city to use the internet, shop at the grocery store, eat out, and just relax. After staying at the transit house which has real toilets, hot water showers, huge shelves full of books, comfy couches, and wireless internet (though my computer is so old I can't access it), I can imagine what a treat it will be to stay here after a while in the bush.

 

Yesterday we visited SIAO, the famous arts and handicrafts festival held in Burkina every two years. There are exhibitors from all over West Africa and lots of cool things. We are living on very small stipends during training so it was hard to look at all of the beautiful fabrics, baskets, woodcarvings, etc. and not be able to buy anything. Since I am so new in country, its hard to know what I can get at other places and what was unique to the festival and also what is a good price to bargain towards. Fortunately the festival will be held again in two years, just a few months before I return to the U.S. so I will be able to go crazy shopping then.

 

We are headed back to Ouahigouya tonight and are done traveling for the rest of training. We are finding out our sites on Wednesday which I am very excited about since it will determine where I am living for the next two years. I feel like it's an early birthday present followed by a late birthday present of our first language exam on Saturday, the morning after I turn 24.

Proud To Be An American

The PC Staff were amazing yesterday and pulled some strings so we could stay at the training center to watch the election results. We watched the local station that started broadcasting a French station around midnight. Before that started they had a program called The American Night on where they discussed the electoral college process and showed maps of the US out of a textbook. It was pretty hilarious but we enjoyed a little coverage from home. They even interviewed a Burkinabe living in Wisconsin about the elections.

The French coverage was not very exciting because we had no fancy graphs like on CNN or any numbers really other than a few announcements when early states closed. I slept from about 2 until 4:30 when my mom texted me that McCain had conceded. I woke a few people up and we watched Obamas acceptance speech. They had it translated in French but could still hear him speaking if everyone was really quiet. I just feel so proud to be an American today even if I am living thousands of miles away. Its time for some real change! I am so excited to be serving my country during this period.

Election

One other thing....I am very excited for the election but am not sure if I will get much coverage so would love some texts or calls to let me know whats happening. I am sure I will hear by Wed morning what happened but I will be impatiently waiting for news!!

Long Update Finally

I finally have a chance to pull out my laptop when I have access to electricity to type up a longer post. I get very little free time when I’m in Ouahigouya so its hard to get to the internet café. Once I’m there, its very slow and has French keyboards so its hard to write much. Now I have the day completely free with no plans other than to visit the pool this afternoon at the fancy hotel in town. I haven’t gone yet but many of my fellow trainees went last weekend while I stayed in the village with my host family.

I’m doing great in Burkina and am slowly adjusting to a completely new way of life. I know this won’t last for long though since we have six more weeks of training and everything will be shook up again when I move to my permanent site where I’ll be living for two years. We’ve only been here less than 3 weeks but it feels like several months. The days are long and busy and it feels like they are trying to pack so much into training. We have between 2-6 hours of language class a day yet my French is not improving very quickly. The teaching method isn’t working so well for me but I figure I also need to take more initiative on my own part to study more. Its hard since I feel so tired by the time we’re done with classes and I’m usually sitting in the dark while 30 children stare at me. I try to practice French at home but many of the kids only speak Moore. Along with language classes we have had lots of medical sessions including ones about sexual assault and HIV/AIDS last week. They are very concerned about our health and safety over the next few years and we’ve gotten lots of advice on prevention.

Our technical training has focused on information about the Burkina Faso health care system and collaborating with Community Based Organizations (CBOs). All of the health volunteers will be assigned to a village health center (CSPS) that is run by an elected board of community members (COGES). Most CSPS’s have a head nurse, assistant nurse, and midwife who are assigned to work there along with a pharmacist, village midwife, and guard that come from the community. The reality among CSPS’s and COGES’s seem to vary greatly. We have visited the CSPS in the village I am currently living and met with several COGES members and the assistant nurse. I think we will start doing more hands-on activities and trainings over the next few weeks.

I have learned a little bit more about my host family but still can’t understand the relationships between mom, dads, and children. I’m not sure who sleeps where or any other simple concepts of core families. All of the children play together and I think eat in groups but I haven’t been able to spend enough time with them or have the language skills to understand the reality of the situation in my home. Everyone is great and I love the kids. They make me feel so welcome when I come home from training and love to sit in my courtyard and watch anything I do. My host dad speaks very little French and I speak only a bit of French and very little Moore yet we are able to communicate somehow. He always makes a point to great me in the morning and evenings and seems happy to have me staying at his home.

I can’t remember what I wrote about the house before so I’ll try to describe it a bit now. Its so unlike anywhere I have ever been so I find it difficult to describe but here is my best shot. We have a large walled compound with a long hallway that is open to the sky. There are at least 30 goats that live in this hallway. On either side of the hallway are doorways leading into small courtyards and rooms off of the courtyards. My courtyard and two rooms are at the end of the hallway. The walls are made out of mud or dung bricks and the courtyards have dirt floors. My rooms have cement floors but I’m not sure about the others. Its hard to tell what my roof is made of because they have black plastic nailed up on inside ceiling. In one corner, this is falling and it looks like the roof is made of small tree branches about an inch in diameter.

I would say there are about 8 of these courtyards and several rooms off each courtyard. Since there are walls about 5 feet high, its hard for me to really tell what is going on in the other courtyards other than peaking through the doorways. The rooms are pretty small but I don’t think people spend much time in them other than to store there few possessions and probably sleep during the cooler season. I think many people sleep outside now but I pretty much stay in my own courtyard once I’m home so am not sure how it works. My sister brings me meals and I eat in the courtyard. Off of my courtyard is my latrine and bathing area. Basically there is a wall in one corner with a latrine hole and a drain for me to take a bucket bath. Its dusk or already dark when I get home so I have gotten used to bathing under the stars. Its an amazing experience! I have seen more shooting starts in the last 3 weeks than I ever have in my life! I have slept inside every night at my host family just because its easier even though its very hot in my room and I sweat all night long! My bucket baths are great after a sweaty day of classes and biking and after a sweaty night! This is what the locals call “the mini-hot season” and it should be cooling down within the next few weeks. It is nice outside at night but at least in the high 90s in the middle of the day.

To get to my village from Ouahigouya I have to bike for 45-60 minutes on a long red dirt road. It is full of lots of ruts and in parts has loose gravel and dirt that is difficult to bike through. Whenever vehicles or motorcycles pass us on the road which is very frequently, we are covered in huge clouds of dust. The ride is not easy for me at this point but I keep telling myself it will get better as I continue to bike more. I don’t mind biking at 7 am because it is still fairly cool out but I’m usually a sweaty, red dust covered mess when I get to training. We spend at least one night a week in Ouahigouya in order to have time to get to the internet, market, or run other errands in the big city. We have class until 5:15 and need to leave immediately in order to have any chance of making it home before dark. The sun begins to set around 5:45 and its completely dark by 6:15 each evening. It rises at 6 am every morning and I usually get up around 5:45 without an alarm just as it is getting lighter out. I wake up early because I go to bed by around 9 pm each night and also because there are lots of donkeys, goats, sheep, cows, roosters, and other animals that make noise all night long and eventually its just not worth trying to sleep any longer. I never realized how loud donkeys are! I have woken up in the middle of the night several times thinking someone was dieing only to realize it was just a donkey “hee-hawing.”

I spent Wed-Sat on Demystification. This is the PC term for visiting a current volunteer and removing the mystery around PC life. I stayed with Becky, a volunteer in a small village about 40 km outside of Ouaga. The capital city is so close you can see a haze of lights at night from outside her courtyard but transport is unreliable so she feels very rural. I loved spending time with her and found her to be very inspiring. She has been in country about a year and is so well integrated into her community and its obvious they love having her there. She came in with no language but easily communicates in French and Moore. She has a theatre group that recently received a grant for a week-long training and supplies. They had their first performance since the training while we were there so we enjoyed seeing them perform a skit about HIV/AIDS followed by a discussion about prevention at another nearby village. I can’t imagine having two years of training and living with my host family but I can imagine living and working as Becky is. She has a private courtyard and two room house which she has decorated nicely. I’m excited to learn about my site in a week and a half!

There have been lots of questions about food, culture, etc but I think I need to wait to write more about these topics until I learn more myself. Please keep sending questions and I will do the best I can to address them when I get a chance. My processing of what I am seeing and learning is slower here so it takes me longer to communicate what I am experiencing. Thanks for your patience!

Today I received two birthday cards which is super exciting since its still two weeks away! Mail arrival seems to vary since I received a card today from my mom that was sent Oct 16 but know she sent one Oct 6 that I still haven’t gotten.

Sorry if this is a bit disjointed! I hope that its not too long and boring but I figured I’d try to get everything out that I could think of since I have the time to write now. Love and miss you all!

CELL PHONE

I bought a cell phone so now have another way to communicate with home. From the US you need to dial either 001 or 011 but I cant remember which. Maybe my mom can post since she has called. My number is:

 

226-75-52-50-74

 

Its super expensive for me to call internationally but all calls received are free so everyone should call me. You can buy phonecards online that are pretty cheap. I gave my parents a couple options that I found online. Hopefully they can post them here if you are interested.

 

Along with calls I can receive and send texts. They are fairly cheap and I can find reception to send texts even if I cant get calls always at my house. I have tried texting a few people with no response so I am not sure they went through. My mom was able to open and respond to my texts though. Go Mom!! You may have to check if your plan allows for international texts. 

 

 

Adjusting To A New Life

Ne y zaabre or good afternoon in Moore the language spoken by my host family and the majority of people in this region of Burkina Faso.

 

First off a quick apology for not replying to any emails and a big thanks for everyone that has contacted me. Its great to here from you but I feel like I have very little time in the city and even shorter time to get on the internet plus its slow and I have to use a keyboard where all the letters are in different places so its a lot of hunt and pecking. I feel like its easier to post blogs than individual replies even though its much less personal but I can reach many more. Please understand and I hope to get more time in the future. I will be spending the weekend in Ouahigouya so hope to pull out my laptop and type up a longer blog and find time to post it next week.

 

After a week of village life I have returned to the city for the evening and am leaving early tomorrow morning to visit a current PCV that lives near Ouagadougou. Two other stagieres, or trainees as we are called in French, and I along with a language and cultural facilitator will travel via public bus, city taxi, and bush taxi to reach the bigger town near her and then will bike 5 kilometers to her town for three days.

 

My French is slowly improving but not as fast as I would like of course. I am used to being at the top of my classes and its a humbling experience to really struggle with communication as many of my fellow trainees are able to communicate fairly well. It will come though along with some Moore and maybe another local language.

 

Okay hope to write more later and please keep in touch! I received my first letter last week from Kim and Jim and my first package this week from Beth. Thank you so much!!!

 

Group Photo

One Week In

Things are going well here in Burkina and its hard to believe I have only been in country a few days! We have had lots of meetings and orientations and received lots of stuff. We have probably gotten at least 6-7 books including French dictioary; verb and grammer books. We also got our bikes and accessories including pumps, water bottles, flat tire fixer kits, lights, repair manual etc and med kits including tons of meds for any kind of problems, big water filters water bottles with filters for travel, and kits to prepare blood slides for malaria test and preserved stool samples. In medical sessions we learned that Burkina used to have the most cases of volunteers with diarrhea each year but as of 2007 we had the 3rd most. Something to definetly look forward to! We had to practice pricking ourselves and preparing slides today so we can do it if necessary at site. Never expected to have so many fun adventures in Peace Corps!

We moved to our host families on Sunday and mine is great though we really cant communicate. I live in a village about ten km outside of Ouahigouya with four other trainees. We have varied info about the size but I guess it has somewhere between 1500 and 10000 people. Our small group has to make a map of the village tomorrow so I should get a better idea. We also are visiting the health center in our village later in the week so will get a sense of what the health center I will eventually work in will be like.

As for my host family, we live in a large walled compound with many rooms or houses. I have a two room house, semi private courtyard, and latrine/shower area at the back of the compound. My host sister who is also 23 told me that there are 6 moms, 5 dads, and 30 kids that live here and I have seen at least 30 goats that live in walled area. They also have a donkey, chickens, sheep, and cows. My communication is very limited so I havent been able to learn anything else. There are so many little kids--I think more than 30-- and they enjoy staring at me. I didnt get home until after dark last night and arrived late on Sunday so havent had much time to interact with them. Im looking forward to the weekend when I will be around during the daylight.

Its very hot here and I feel like Im constantly sweating. They call it the mini hot season but it should cool down in a month or two. It did rain yesterday afternoon after we were told we wouldnt see rain until next June but thats probably it for the rainy season which started in June. Everything is super muddy now and tonight is my first time biking home on long dirt road so wish me luck.

I am getting a cell phone today probably and will try to post the number when I get a chance but wont be back in the city for several days as I have language class and other activities in my village. Hope everyone is well; I have been thinking of you!!

Arrived in Burkina

I am using a French keyboard and dont have much time but I arrived safetly on Wed evening after many hours traveling. First night was in Ouagadougou and then drove to Ouahigouya in the north. We are staying here until Sunday when I will move to host family in village out of town. I took my French test and got novice mid which is one step above novice low but for no classes I think is good. I need to reach intermediate low to swear in on Dec 19. We were fitted for our bikes and will get them tomorrow. Everyone is great and I am happy to be here. No real culture shock yet but I feel kind of insulated now at training center. Im sure will be different once I am with family and doing more on my own. Will try to write more next week when have more freetime and actual training starts.

Staging in Philly

I left early yesterday morning for staging in Philadelphia. Travel wasn't too bad. One of my bags was overweight but I told the guy I was moving to Africa for 2 years and asked if he could. He said as long as I put some weight from one bag into the other so they were about even that I would be fine and wouldn't have to pay the fee. We'll see if it works that well today! I figure even if I have to pay today it will be worth it since I'm embarrasingly attached to my stuff at this point!

Staging in the pre-departure orientation that all PCVs go through in the United States before heading abroad. It used to be 3 days but because of budget cuts it was shortened to 2. I'm not sure why it would need be longer since we didn't seem to have trouble getting through all the material. We turned in lots of paperwork and became official Peace Corps Trainees. We also went over policies, anxieties and how to cope, and broke into small groups several times to get to know lots of people. There are 31 volunteers headed to Burkina with me; some are health and some are small economic development. I'm the only Master's International student doing the grad school/PC program and there is one married couple. About 2/3 of the group is female.

This morning we woke up early to visit the federal clinic. Many had to get Yellow Fever Vaccines but I just had to show proof I had it and than get checked off. They also gave us all our first dose of malaria prophylaxis to begin today. We'll get the rest of the shots once we arrive.

We're flying out in a few hours and will be in Paris in the morning. We spend about 8 hours there before flying to Ouagadougou where I will spend Wednesday night. From there we're headed to Ouahigouya where I'll be in training for about 9 weeks. Not sure when I'll get on the internet but hope to be able to post later in the week that I arrived safetly!

Changes

I will be away from the United States for 27 months and I expect many things to change while I'm gone. I'm 23 now and will be 26 when I return which feels so old to me. I still feel like a kid but I figure 26 is definetly an adult!

In order to recognize the changes, I want to make a record of a few things here.

Gallon of Gas: $3.19 gallon (but it was $1 more two weeks ago)

Gallon of Milk: I forgot to check at the grocery store so don't know = (

Population of Washington Couny, WI: 29,778 (in July 2007, the most recent I could find)
(This area has been growing so quickly since I was in high school and I expect it to keep growing as people move north out of Milwaukee)

Cost of Undergrad Tuition at UW-Madison: $7,570
(It was $5,138 a year when I started in 2003)

Family Pets: 13 year old Snowball, 4 month old Maggie, & 12ish goldfish in backyard pond

Current Weight: 119 lbs on my parents scale
(I gained weight studying abroad in Kenya and have been told in Peace Corps, men usually lose weight but women gain)

Relationship Status: single & loving it

Parents' religion: Methodist
(They were Catholic when I left for Kenya and Methodist when I returned 6 months later)

President: Bush
(Lets hope for some real change in Washington! I voted Oct 8!)


I am sure that I will miss out on some important events but I would really just like all my friends to wait for the big things until 2011. I don't want to miss any engagements or weddings (Tricia?), babies (Maren?), or any other significant changes while I'm gone! Is that too much to ask?


Any other things I should record now to track the changes while I'm gone?

Merci!

There are so many businesses, organizations, and individuals that have supported me during my preparations for Peace Corps. I really appreciate all of the help! I especially want to give a huge shout out to the following:

• SunNight Solar Enterprises: Solar powerered flashlight so I can find my latrine in the middle of the night & share with a woman in my village when I leave. They make a great product and donate a flashlight to someone that really needs it when you buy one for yourself. Check out their website!


• Steins Gardens and Gifts of West Bend: tons of vegetable seeds for gardens in my community


• Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board: pencils, post-its, crank flashlight keychains, and dairy info to share with kids in my village


• The Christian Science Monitor: one year subscription to the World Edition courtsey of the Adopt-a-Subscriber program


• Chaco USA: fantastic discount to keep my feet comfortable


• Keens Footwear: wonderful discount for great biking sandals

I also greatly appreciate all of the support and kindness I have received from friends and family. The love and generosity that has been shown to me is amazing and I feel so blessed to have such wonderful relationships. I hope to hear from all of you while I am away and would love to have you come visit if possible! I'm always excited to host friends and family!

Finally I want to thank my dad and mom for all of their support over the years. They have always encouraged me to live my dreams and are very excited for this amazing opportunity I have. They both had thought about joining Peace Corps in the past and now I am able to fulfill my goal and their dreams as well! I wouldn't be here without their love and support!

Communicating with Kirstin

My address is as follows:

Kirstin Krudwig, PCV
S/c Corps de la Paix
01 B.P. 6031
Ouagadougou 01
BURKINA FASO


Peace Corps and other volunteers have provided lots of suggestions for mailing letters and packages and I wanted to share some advice with everyone thats thinking about writing me.

Letters must be sent air mail (currently $0.94 stamps) and it helps to write the words PAR AVION or AIR MAIL on the envelope. It may be a good idea to number your letters since mail can sometimes take a while and may not always arrive sequentially. It sounds like letters usually take 2-4 weeks and packages can take even longer.

Postcards should be sent in envelopes―otherwise they may be found on the wall of the local post office!

As for packages, there are a couple suggestions. Padded envelopes usually arrive faster than boxes and one volunteer said several smaller packages are a better idea than one big box. The post office has Flat Rate envelopes and boxes which some have said are cheaper than using your own. They run $12 to $50 depending on size and have a max weight for each size.

Unlike in some countries, it sounds like the mail system is safe and reliable and packages are usually not open before they are received. The post office in Burkina may charge me a tax but this seems to be rare as well. Its not a bad idea to be pretty generic on the customs forms though. Put down something that does not sound exciting or tempting and list a low value.

I bought a cell phone so now have another way to communicate with home. From the US you need to dial 011. My number is:

226-75-52-50-74

Its super expensive for me to call internationally but all calls received are free so everyone should call me. You can buy phonecards online that are pretty cheap.

Along with calls I can receive and send texts and they are fairly cheap. I have great reception at site and would love to hear from you!

One more reason why we need a change...

I didn't realize that Bush could screw over international public health programs much more than he already has but I was wrong. Read this.

Books to Prepare

I love to read so during my long application process I've read lots of books about the Peace Corps organization, Africa (culture, history & politics), living abroad, and stories from RPCVs (Returned Peace Corps Volunteers). I found all of these at the Madison, New Orleans, or West Bend public library systems. I know there are many more books out there but I was looking for free copies to read. Check a few out if you're interested in learning more!

My Favorites

• Nine Hills to Nambonkaha: Two Years in the Heart of an African Village, by Sara Erdman (Cote d'Ivoire, 1998-2000)
• Power Lines: Two Years on South Africa's Borders, by Jason Carter (President Jimmy Carter's grandson) (South Africa, 1998-2000)
• River Town: Two Years on the Yangtzee River, by Peter Hesller (China, 1996-1998)

Other Books by RPCVs

• Mango Elephants in the Sun, by Susana Herrera (Cameroon, 1992-1994)
• The Village of Waiting, by George Packer (Togo, 1982-1983)
• Dear Exile: The True Story of Two Friends Separated (for a Year) by an Ocean , Hilary Liftin and Kate Montgomery (Kenya, 1996-1997)
• Living Poor: A Peace Corps Chronicle, Mortiz Thomsen (Ecuador, 1965-68)
• Riding the Demon: On the Road in West Africa, by Peter Chilson (Niger 1985-1987) (this is about a return trip in 1992-1993)
• Under the Neem Tree, by Susan Lowerre (Senegal, 1985-1987)
• Away From Home: Letters to My Family, by Lillian Carter (India, 1966-1968)

Short Story Collections

• A Life Inspired: Tales of Peace Corps Service, Collection of Short Stories (including 2 from Burkian Faso PCVs) published by Peace Corps
• The Great Adventure: Volunteer Stories of Life Overseas, Collection of Short Stories published by Peace Corps
• At Home in the World: The Peace Corps Story, Collection of Short Stories Published by Peace Corps
• Going Up Country: Travel Essays by Peace Corps Writers, John Coyne (editor) (Ethiopia, 1962-1964)
• From the Center of the Earth: Stories Out of the Peace Corps, Geraldine Kennedy (editor)(Liberia, 1962-1964)

Books About the Peace Corps

• So, You Want to Join the Peace Corps: What to Know Before You Go, by Dillon Banerjee (Cameroon, 1994-1996)
• American Taboo: A Murder in the Peace Corps, by Philip Weiss, about the 1976 murder of Tongan PCV
• All You Need Is Love: The Peace Corps and the Spirit of the 1960s, by Elizabeth Cobbs Hoffman

Friends, Family, & Lots of Love

Knowing that I am moving to Africa for two years has forced me to say many good-byes. I feel like I am used to this since many of my friends have moved across the country and the world and I also am always trying to travel. This is different though since I'll be gone for so much longer! I feel so fortunate that I have been able to see so many important people in my life over the last month as I prepare to leave.

My childhood friend Tricia is now living in Milwaukee so I visited her new apartment and had lunch. My college friend Ivy is a flight attendant out of Minneapolis and flew into Milwaukee for a day. We were able to hang out, run errands, and enjoy cheesecake at the Cheesecake Factory! Ivy and I haven't been able to spend much time together since we lived together several years ago so I love every moment when we do meet up! My friend Anna is now living in Washington D.C. but flew home for a weekend with her parents and we were able to have a slumber party which was lots of fun! She's been an invaluable resource since she has already been a volunteer and knows many of the ins and outs.

Last week was my cousins' 30th annual Barn Dance in northern Wisconsin. I have always loved visiting Jim and Kim and the barn dance is a great time to see lots of relatives and family friends. I missed the barn dance last year when I was in New Orleans so many people I hadn't seen for 2 years! I posted pictures to Picasso to try that out so check them out on the link to the right.

Yesterday my family had an open house and going-away party and lots of friends, neighbors, and relatives attended. It was fun to talk with everyone and answer lots of questions about my next big adventure!

There are a few important friends and relatives I haven't been able to see and I hope they all know I'm thinking about them as I prepare to leave and I expect to hear from everyone while I'm in Burkina Faso! Just another innocent request for mail!

Videos

I've seen a few videos that talk about the Peace Corps so thought I'd share them.

Here is a recent interview with the PC Director and JFK's great-nephew who was a volunteer in the Dominican Republic. Check it out!

Interview with Former Burkina Faso Volunteer


"What's Your Calling?" Ad


"How Many People?" Ad


PC Ad narrated by Matthew McConaughey

Burkina Overview

The following information was adapted from the Peace Corps' Welcome Book.

History & Government

Most of the area known today as Burkina Faso was once dominated by the Mossi people, who established their empire around 1500. In 1897, France imposed its rule over the people of Burkina Faso, but it was not until 1947 that the French colony of Haute Volta (Upper Volta) was created.

Full independence from the French came on August 5, 1960, with Maurice Yaméogo as the nation’s first president. Four of the six presidents after Yaméogo came into power through military coups. Thomas Sankara, who, after a coup, led the country from August 1983 until his death on October 15, 1987, was arguably the most influential of Burkina Faso’s presidents. Sankara’s charismatic leadership style, which emphasized self-sufficiency and a lean and efficient government that transferred wealth from urban centers to rural areas, was popular with citizens and created a sense of hope in the country.

The current president, Blaise Compaore, has been in power since Sankara’s death. Compaore was the only candidate in an election held after four years of military rule, and he was sworn-in as president of the fourth republic on December 24, 1991. Compaore has won the last two presidential elections, held in 1998 and 2005, by wide margins.

Burkina Faso is an independent republic with a unicameral National Assembly of 111 members (called deputies) who serve five-year terms. Political and constitutional reforms have moved Burkina Faso incrementally toward democratization. In 1991, a new constitution was passed through a referendum, laying the foundation of the fourth republic.

Economy

Burkina Faso has few natural resources, and 90 percent of its population engages mainly in subsistence agriculture (producing peanuts, shea nuts, sesame, cotton, sorghum, millet, corn, rice, and livestock). Agricultural production is limited and risky because of poor soils and cyclical droughts. A significant portion of the labor force migrates annually to neighboring coastal countries, in search of unskilled employment. Due to an ongoing conflict and unrest in Côte d’Ivoire and northern Ghana, however, that number has deminished. Burkina Faso is landlocked, which drives up the price of imports and is a significant obstacle to maintaining the competitiveness of exports. The primary exports—cotton, livestock, and gold—are subject to major price and yield fluctuations as a result of agricultural production conditions in the case of cotton and livestock and global market prices in the case of gold.

People and Culture

The population of Burkina Faso is approximately 11 million, with an annual growth rate of about 2.8 percent. Burkina Faso is composed of a rich mix of people representing over 60 language or ethnic groups. The major groups include the Mossi (48 percent), Fulani (10 percent), Mande (7 percent), Lobi-Dagari (7 percent), Bobo (7 percent), and Senufo (6 percent). Islam is practiced by about 50 percent of the population; Christianity (Roman Catholicism and Protestantism) by about 20 percent; and indigenous beliefs, which continue to play a major role in the lives of many Burkinabé regardless of their religious orientation, by approximately 30 percent. The Burkinabé are known for their tolerance and acceptance of ethnic and religious diversity. While Islam is practiced by a significant portion of the population, religious fundamentalism is rare. In addition, it is very common to find Christians, Muslims, and animists in the same family participating in one another’s religious celebrations, and marriage across ethnic lines is widely accepted.

The Panafrican Film and Television Festival of Ouagadougou and the International Arts and Crafts Show of Ouagadougou are two major events that highlight Burkina Faso’s role as a country devoted to cultivating the arts. Artists and art connoisseurs from all over the world come to Ouagadougou for these events, injecting the society with new levels of creative talent.

The people of Burkina Faso are the country’s greatest resource. Despite their poverty, they remain dignified, extremely hardworking, and very welcoming to foreigners. Peace Corps Volunteers could not find a more hospitable group of people to work with than the Burkinabé.

Environment

Burkina Faso, a landlocked country that sits on the edge of the Sahel, is mostly flat with undulating plains. It has an area of 105,869 square miles, slightly larger than Colorado. It is bordered on the north by Mali and Niger and on the south by Côte d’Ivoire, Ghana, Togo, and Benin. While the northern part of the country consists mostly of desert, the southern and central regions are forested. There are two distinct seasons in Burkina Faso: the rainy season from June to October and the dry season from November to May. The climate is warm and dry from November to March, hot and dry from March to May, and warm and wet during the rainy season. The average temperature in the rainy and cool seasons ranges from 60 degrees Fahrenheit at night to 95 degrees during the day, with temperatures rising to over 100 degrees in the hot season. Average rainfall ranges from approximately 40 inches in the south to less than 10 inches in the north.

Travel Info

My staging kit was waiting for me when I returned from Florida. I thought I was leaving on Oct 12 but they've shortened our staging so now I'm leaving Oct 13. Staging is a 2-3 day orientation held in the U.S. before leaving for your Peace Corps country. I'll be in Philadelphia.

I'll be leaving Milwaukee around 7:30 am on Monday Oct 13 and arrivng in Philly a few hours later. We have meetings from 2-7 pm and then have to go to the immunization clinic the next morning at 7:30 am. We head to the airport in the early afternoon on Tuesday Oct 14 and depart for Paris at 6:45 pm. I arrive in Paris at 8:25 am and kill the day in the airport before our flight to Ouagadougou at 4:10 pm. We arrive in Burkina Faso on Wednesday Oct 15 at 7:45 pm. Its nice that we arrive in the evening so hopefully we can go straight to bed and avoid a little jet lag!

Florida

I had a great 8 days in Tampa with my sister. She really spoiled me and we did lots of pampering. Here's just a quick list of all the fun we had: pedicure, haircut (6 inches for me--easier to wash in a bucket), massage, and 3 yoga classes (power yoga, hot yoga, and hot flow). We also went to watch the Tennessee game at a local restaurant where alumni meet; Beth used to be the president of the Tampa UT alumni association and is still on the board. We did some shopping for a few things I wanted to get and ate at some great restaurants! I also got to meet her "buddy" Mark that I've been hearing lots about. We went to a club on Tuesday where Mark's friend and his band were performing. They played lots of 80s & 90s music and all the band members look like they're still living in the 80s! We also visited World of Beer that my dad has been raving about since his last visit. Besides the few beers, we enjoyed lots of great wine!

Beth has to work during the day, of course, so I had lots of free time. Tuesday, Wednesday, and Thursday I went on a bike ride each morning and impressed myself by going 15, 17, and 20 miles respectively. And thats in 90+ degree Florida heat, humidity, and sun! I guess I'm more prepared for the biking in Burkina than I had thought! I received a request from Peace Corps to get measured for a bike and helmet so they could have one ready when I arrive. They also asked my experience with mountain biking and bike maintenance. My mom and I went to a local shop to see what I needed before I headed to Florida. I was a little unsure about what to say about biking. I know how to ride but rarely do it and have to admit that I sometimes am a little nervous. I have been riding two different bikes at my parents' house. One was my First Communion present when I was 8 and the other my dad picked up at a garage sale for really cheap at least a decade ago. Needless to say they're not that easy to ride! The garage sale find is my preference and the gears are rusted so I can't change them and only the back break works but not that well. After riding Beth's bike, I feel much more confident and realized I'll be able to handle whatever bike situation I'm put in.

Budget Crunch

There has been a lot of talk and rumors about the budget problems Peace Corps is currently facing. I've heard a couple explanations including that because of the weakening of the dollar abroad and the fact that the PC pays for so much in foreign currency, they now have less money to spend even with the same budget. Increases in gas prices have played a role in increased cost for food and other supplies which trickle down to less money for everyone. Also there have been delays in Congress passing the new requested budget.

A few of the things that I've heard of that are affected by the budget shortfall include the closing of the Minneapolis (which I worked with) and Denver recruitment offices. Peace Corps says they want a diverse applicant pool to represent the country's population but as they decrease their recruitment only to a few large cities, I think this diversity will decrease. Peace Corps has provided Newsweek magazines to volunteers for years but they cut that this summer stating volunteers increasingly have access to internet news. I don't know how I'm going to get my news now since I doubt I'll have regular access to the internet. I was really excited about getting Newsweek!

I've also heard of nominees that have been told there are fewer slots and they will have to wait longer for an invite or even turned away and told to reapply in the future. Several people have been told this just a month or two before they were expecting to leave. Also applicants have been delayed in receiving nominations or have been given nominations for a much later date than requested because there are fewer nominee slots and lots of people applying. I feel so fortunate to have an invite!

There was an article in yesterday's Los Angeles Times and another about a month ago in the Washington Post regarding the Peace Corps budget.

Update: Here's another article from the Huffington Post on Sept 22. Also the LA Times article was syndicated and appeared in the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel on 9/21.

One Month

Today is the one month mark until I leave for Peace Corps. Thats crazy! I know time flies but I can't believe its already mid-September. I originally had planned to leave for Peace Corps in early August and I thought I'd have so much time to kill if I didn't leave until October. I'm very thankful now that I've had all this extra time. I've needed it to work on my independent study and learn French but also to spend time with friends and family, shop for things I need/want to take, and time to read and mentally prepare for this next big adventure. I'm nowhere close to being ready to go now but hopefully will be in a short 30 days!

My mom and I went to a Wayne Crusaders 4-H meeting this week. I haven't been to one since I graduated from high school so it was fun to go back and see lots of the little kids I remember now much bigger and in high school. Several people were interested in what I was doing and its exciting to have a plan to share with them. Nobody seemed surprised that I'm moving to Africa!

I flew to Florida yesterday to spend time with my sister in Tampa. She's at work during the day so I'm able to just hang out her nice apartment. We've got lots of plans for the weekend including our traditional hair cuts, going to watch the University of Tennessee football game at a local bar where alums gather (she's one), and a few yoga classes including a hot yoga class, her new favorite exercise! Its been 2 1/2 years since I've been here and a year since I've seen Beth so I'm really excited to have over a week to hang out with her!

What is the Peace Corps?

The Peace Corps was founded in 1961 by President John F. Kennedy to challenge individuals to serve their country by working and living in developing countries. His brother-in-law, Sargent Shriver, was the first director. The Peace Corps is a federal agency so reports to Congress and the President.

The three goals of the organization are:

• Helping the people of interested countries in meeting their need for trained men and women.


• Helping promote a better understanding of Americans on the part of the peoples served.


• Helping promote a better understanding of other peoples on the part of Americans.

Fast Facts

Total number of Volunteers and trainees to date: 190,000
Total number of countries served: 139

Current number of Volunteers and Trainees: 8,079

Current number of countries served: 68 posts serving 74 countries
Gender: 59% female, 41% male
Marital Status: 93% single, 7% married
People of Color: 17% of Peace Corps Volunteers
Age: 27 years old (average), 25 years old (median)
Volunteers over age 50: 5% (oldest Volunteer is 80)
Education: 95% have at least an undergraduate degree, 11% have graduate studies or degrees
Fiscal year 2008 budget: $330.8 million (which I've been told is smaller than the annual budget for the Army's band uniforms!)

Current regions: Caribbean, Central America & Mexico, South America, North Africa & Middle East, Africa, Eastern Europe & Central Asia, Asia, & Pacific Islands

Current work areas: education, health & HIV/AIDS, business, environment, youth, agriculture, youth outreach, community development

Volunteers serve for 27 months -- 3 months of training and two years at their site

Notable RPCVs

• Jim Doyle, Governor of Wisconsin and wife Jessica Doyle (Tunisia 1967-69)
• Chris Matthews, host of NBC's Hardball (Swaziland 1968-70)
• Donna Shalala, former U.S. Secretary of Health and Human Services (Iran 1962-64)
• Christopher Dodd, U.S. Senator, Connecticut (Dominican Republic 1966-68)
• Mildred Taylor, author of Roll of Thunder, Hear My Cry, winner of Newbery Award (Ethiopia 1965-67)
• Priscilla Wrubel, founder of the Nature Company (Liberia 1961-63)
• David Briscoe, chief correspondent of World Desk for Associated Press (Philippines 1966-70)
• Dane Smith, former president of National Peace Corps Association; former ambassador to Senegal and Guinea (Ethiopia 1963-65)
• Donald B. Clark, USAID mission director, Senegal (Burkina Faso 1969-71)
• Carl Pope, executive director of Sierra Club (India 1967-69)
• Thomas Petri, U.S. Representative from Wisconsin (Somalia 1966-67)
• And this is just a few!

All information from http://www.peacecorps.gov/. Check out the site for more info!

Harmattan

I've been hearing and reading lots about the Harmattan, or the winds off the Sahara Desert. When I visited Anna in Cape Verde, I first learned how bad these sand storms could be when she described flights being cancelled because of sand storms 500 miles west of the African coast!

I'm currently reading Angry Wind: Through Muslim Black Africa by Truck, Bus, Boat and Camel by Jeffrey Tayler. He begins the book with the following description:

HARMATTAN (from the Twi haramata, a derivation of the Arabic haram, forbidden, evil accursed): A parching easterly wind that originates above the wastes of the Sahara and blows for days over Central and West Africa. Fills the sky with reddish-brown dust, reduces the sun to a pale orb. Exacerbates drought, cracks the trunks of trees, defoliates vegetation, prompts the acacia to ooze gum arabic. In humans, the Harmattan may aggravate respiratory illnesses and cause splits in the skin, dryness of the eyes and lips. Under certain conditions, the Harmattan fosters the spread of dust-born diseases, including lethal strains of meningitis.

Sounds absolutely awful huh? One former volunteer in Mali told me that she could see the storms approaching her village and everyone would go inside and shut the windows and shutters and watch as the room got cloudy with dust since the homes couldn't keep all of the sands out. Its definitely another world from Wisconsin....

Working Girl

I've been writing about everything I've learned about Burkina Faso but just realized I never described my actual program and what I'll be doing there. I do have to work though its not going to be a 9-5 job; I'm considered "on" 7 days a week & only get 2 days off a month though I probably will have days that I'm not actually doing much other than hanging out with community members. Thats still part of my job though since I can learn about the culture and share ideas about improving health while preparing dinner or collecting water with my neighbors.

My official job title is Community Health Development Worker and I will be assigned to rural health center. I have three primary duties listed in my assignment booklet:

1) Assist the head nurse to train and ensure the continued function of a village health center management committee (COGES) including completing a community health needs assessment and plan, conduct, and evaluate community health promotion programs.

2) Assist the head nurse and COGES to establish partnerships with Community Based Organizations (CBOs).

3) Assist the head nurse to educate and build the capacity of individuals, including community peer educators and students.

The main programatic focus will be on: HIV/AIDS prevention, reproductive health, malaria, malnutrition, and immunizations. My main interest in public health is reproductive health so I'm excited to learn that I may also work with village health workers and traditional birth attendants.

The health center in my village will serve 5-10 surrounding villages and my job will involve "strenuous physical activities including biking on difficult terrain in hot and rainy weather for outreach activities in difficult to access villages." Sounds like fun!

I think whatever my assignment turns out to actually be -- since it probably will be very different than on paper -- I will gain incredible experience that will benefit me in whatever I end up doing in 2010 and beyond.

No Me Gustav = (

I have spent the last few days frantically watching CNN and The Weather Channel, reading the frequent texts I've received from Tulane's emergency services, and checking the web for updates on Hurricane Gustav. I was completely out of the loop until Wednesday when I received a text from Tulane that they were monitoring the hurricane situation. Thursday afternoon I got another text that they were going to be closing the university the next day at noon through the following Wednesday. I was shocked; I had no idea that the storm was that serious and I have been continuously surprised at how serious it really has been. I talked to several friends that were in New Orleans and most evacuated Friday or Saturday. My friend Allison works at a senior care facility for her internship and is on their evacuation team so had to stay and work. We talked Saturday night and she wasn't planning to evacuate with work until Monday (today) morning. I was gone most of the day yesterday and came home to news that the storm was moving faster and the rains and wind were already hitting the city. I couldn't get ahold of Allison but finally heard later last night that they had evacuated early yesterday with all hundred or more patients and were safe in Baton Rouge. It sounds like most people believed the warnings and followed the mandatory evacuations; I think people were a lot more scared than when Katrina hit. Off and on today I watched the news as reporters stood on Canal Street, St. Charles, and in the French Quarter in front of buildings that I passed daily just a few weeks ago. I even saw a few shots of Tidewater where the School of Public Health is and a few other buildings right by my apartment. The rain was pouring down and wind blowing everything in sight. I have been very scared for the city. So much money, energy, and love has been invested in the three years since Katrina--the third anniversary was last Thursday when people first really started preparing for Gustav. Its awful to think of the economic damage to the city again and that this hurricane may continue to cause if tourism slows again. I received a text this afternoon from Tulane that the worst had passed and both campuses had fared well with very little destruction. Its great news but there still is so much that could happen in the next few days. Tulane originally was planning to re-open on Wed & classes Thursday but that has now been postponed until Saturday and Monday. There were only two days of classes held before the evacuation and now students have a week off before starting again. Quite the welcoming to New Orleans for the new students!!! As happy as I am that I'm safe in Wisconsin, I also realize what a need there will be in the city over the next few weeks and months and I regret not being able to be there to help. I was only in New Orleans for a year but there is so much to love.

Learning French

I already speak three languages (English, Spanish, & Swahili) but Peace Corps decided it would be cool for me to learn another two. Its hard to believe that in two years I will be able to say I speak a five-fingered hand full of languages! I've studied languages since I started taking Spanish in six grade and my previous experiences have all been in a classroom, at least while trying to learn the basics about grammar, verb conjugation, sentence structure, and adjective/adverb agreements. Later I've advanced my language skills while living with host families and travelling but the important stuff definitely came from a teacher. I did try to learn Japanese on my own but as you may notice, its not under my list of languages I speak. Also I did begin my studies by spending two weeks at a Japanese immersion camp in Minnesota one summer. I'm extremely comfortable studying languages in a structured classroom setting but have no idea how to teach myself.

I feel completely overwhelmed having to learn French on my own. Of course I will have classes for many hours a day once I arrive in Burkina but I have been strongly encouraged to learn as much as humanely possible before I arrive. The more I learn before I go, the higher level I will test into when I arrive which will determine which class I'm placed in and how soon I can start learning Moore or another local language. I think the local language is more important to learn since it is probably what many women and children only speak and what is more commonly used in the homes. In my opinion, the more I can learn during training and before I get to my village, the better off I will be at trying to integrate into my new community.

Back to learning French in Wisconsin: I originally was told by Peace Corps that they would be providing me with 3 months access to Rosetta Stone online. This offer was later revoked due to some budget issues and because they are currently accessing the effectiveness of providing the program to future Vs. Anyways I have checked out numerous CDs at the library about learning French quickly and haven't found any that are worth the gas to drive to library (except I walk but you get my point). I don't know how the foreign language CD business can stay afloat except that people must be very gullible to believe they will actually learn something from these programs. I looked at taking a class locally and there were a few options in Fond du Lac and West Bend. I could spend several hundred dollars to take First Semester French at our local community college fondly referred to as Cow Pie but would only be able to attend the first 1/3 of classes and don't think I would learn enough in that amount of time to justify the expense.

I finally broke down about two weeks ago and decided I needed to invest in Rosetta Stone myself if I was going to accomplish anything. I've been trying to use it quite a bit now and am half way through Unit 1 (of 4). I've learned a few nouns and verbs and can say a few sentences but nothing that I feel is really going to help me once I'm thrown in with a family that doesn't know a word of English. I've heard such rave reviews of Rosetta Stone but it sure hasn't impressed me yet! I'm holding out hope that its going to quickly improve and I'll start feeling like a pro French speaker in the next few weeks.

I also registered for BBC's online French course and am getting some e-mailed exercises from that. I'm trying to look up verb conjugation on my own but haven't figured out any patterns yet. Are there any in French or do you have to just learn every form of every verb on its own? I also can't figure out when tu (informal you) is used instead of vous (formal you). I could tell you in Spanish that it depends on the country so that in Costa Rica you never use the informal you and in Mexico City its rare to use the formal you. I have about six more weeks to go and hopefully will be able to keep pushing myself to learn more and more.

Visiting Relatives

My relatives from Minneapolis-Uncle Jeff, Aunt Deanne, and cousins Jessie and Jason--came to visit for the weekend. I haven't seen them in over a year at least so it was nice to hang out. Jason just turned 21 and it was Germanfest in West Bend so we all enjoyed a beer in the afternoon and the kids went bar-hopping in downtown WB at night! Jason is studying abroad in London this fall so we compared our travel preparations. Jeff and Jason used to be very active in the Boy Scouts and did a lot of camping. They gave some supplies to use while I'm "camping" in Africa including 2 awesome headlamps. I'm super excited to use them when I need to find the latrine in the middle of the night. They also brought me a magnesium fire starter. They promised it worked but we all were really struggling with. Jason disappeared to find some better bark to start on fire and when I tried it went up in flames. Turns out he had doused it in gasoline and I hadn't noticed! I sure hope they have matches since thats the only way I'll be getting a fire started!

Jason & I trying to start a fire.

My Timeline

Just wanted to jot down my application timeline since a lot of people wonder how long it takes to apply for Peace Corps.

Mar. 27, 2007 -- began application online
Apr. 17, 2007 -- application submitted
May 10, 2007 -- interview with UW-Madison PC campus representative
May 21, 2007 -- phone interview with regional recruiter
Jun 12, 2007 -- officially nominated (took a bit longer b/c as an MI had to wait for Tulane acceptance letter)
Aug 20, 2007 -- began working with MI placement liason in DC
Aug 22, 2007 -- submitted medical paperwork
Aug 28, 2007 -- Tulane MI orientation/luncheon
Oct 11, 2007 -- medical clearance
Oct 19, 2007 -- Director of Peace Corps visited Tulane
Dec 20, 2007 -- LASIK surgery & medically deferred
Mar 21, 2008 -- medically cleared again
Jun 27, 2008 -- invite received

Throughout the process I was asked to submit five references instead of the three usually needed, four separate resumes after submitting one with my application, and had to complete two romantic involvemnt forms. In total I worked with:

1 campus representative
1 regional recruiter
1 Master's International Placement Liason
2 medical nurses
1 medical assistant
1 placement office assistant
2 placement officers
Head of Master's International
3 Tulane Master's International Coordinators

That's a lot of people that have looked at my application and talked to me! Now that I've been invited I'm working with Sato travel for passport, visa, and plane tickets and my country desk assistant for other info. Its been a long process but I hope that its all worth it in the end!

Development Philosophies

I found this on a Mali PCV's blog and thought others may enjoy it as well.

A villager falls into a hole he can't climb out of.

Later, a missionary walks by. The villager explains his plight and the missionary throws down a Bible. "If you follow Jesus, he will show you the way."

An NGO worker walks by. The villager explains his plight and the NGO worker throws down a wad of money and walks away.

A Peace Corps Volunteer walks by. The villager explains his plight and the Peace Corps Volunteer runs off. After a while, the Volunteer returns with a bag and jumps in the hole. "Did you bring something to climb out with?" asks the villager. "No," says the PCV, "I'm coming to live with you."

I hope that I can do more than just live in the hole during my time in Burkina Faso. While I do think that faith and financial support are important, I think it takes more than just these things and hope that as a PCV, after jumping in, I will be able to help work together with villagers to get out of the hole.

Clarification from a 5 Year Old

Kay from 4-H forwarded this to me and I had to share it.

From a kindergarten teacher:

My five-year old students, are learning to read. Yesterday one of them pointed at a picture in a zoo book and said, 'Look at this! It's a frickin' elephant!' I took a deep breath, then asked...'What did you call it?' 'It's a frickin' elephant. It says so on the picture!'

And so it does... ' A f r i c a n Elephant '

Loving the Fairs & Everything WI

I can't believe I've been back in WI for a month now. The time has flown by but I've been really busy. I spent several days unpacking and sorting stuff to store for long term, to use over the next couple months, to take to Africa, and to toss or donate. My mom and I took Lucy to Noah's Ark waterpark which was lots of fun like always. I also took a day trip to Madison to visit folks at the 4-H office and spend time with my friend Lou. I had so many errands I also wanted to run but some will have to wait until a future trip.

My parents have talked about getting a new puppy for probably two years now. My dog Snowball is now 13 years old and is getting really old. Once my parents decided to move, they wanted to wait to get a dog until they were settled and than my mom wanted to wait until they had new grass. It seemed like it was never going to happen! There had been a news report about the humane society buying out a puppy mill though and that there were over 1000 puppies looking for homes so we went to just look after church. Of course you can't just look! It was the first day the dogs were available and we had to wait over 2 hours until we could work with an adoption counselor so we had picked out lots that we liked by that time. We eventually settled on a 2 month old female silky terrior/yorky terrior mix. My parents have named her Maggie and she is lots of fun. She is getting along well with Snowball most of the time except for when she likes to chew on his ears!

It was then time for the Washington County Fair. This was the 150th year of the fair, the 35th year for the Fairest of the Fair, and the 10th year at the new Fair Park. I can't believe its already been a decade; I was on the 4-H Leaders Assocation when it was being built so helped make many important decisions and got to cut the ribbon at the opening ceremonies! This year I enjoyed the fair in a different way than usual since I was selling tickets at the booth every night. I still saw a lot of people I knew from 4-H and ended early one night so I could see part of the Collective Soul concert and hang out with my friends Tricia and Elise. I worked until Sunday night at the county fair and had to be in Milwaukee by noon on Monday for my next job.

I've spent the last two weeks at the WI State Fair working as a Sound and Stage Manager for Youth Exhibits. Sounds official huh? I was even called agriculture staff though I of course know nothing about cows or horses. Basically what I did was work with all the 4-H and FFA music and drama groups that performed on the two stages at the fair. I had a lot of fun, got to work with a great group of people, and saw lots of folks I've known over the years participating and working with 4-H. We worked really long days without many breaks and lived in the dorms in a room with 7 other people and 1 bathroom so its nice to be home again! On the final Saturday night we had Midnight at the Oasis (one of our stages is the "Ag Oasis") which I guess is an annual tradition. Our group and several other ag staff came out to the stage after all the youth went to bed and enjoyed karaoke and dancing on the stage. Our boss brought us lots of fried fair food and we had a blast. I didn't get to bed until 3 am which was very late for the fair. The next night we had to start tearing down all the exhibits starting at 9 pm when the fair closed. I was pretty tired by the time I got home! I felt like I really got to enjoy both fairs to the most since I was there every single day. Hopefully that will make up for missing the fairs at least the next two years!

Tailgating at the Brewers-Cubs game the night before fair started.

All the Youth Exhibits Staff on the Ag Oasis Stage.

When I got back to my parents' on Monday afternoon, our guest had already arrived the night before. My family is hosting one of the chaperones from the 4-H/Japanese exchange for 2 weeks. Megumi is the same age as me and is a Labo staff member so we have a lot in common. Tuesday was the midpoint meeting my mom planned at a nearby park so several host families came with their exchange students and Peter, Kay, and Erin came from the state office. These events really make me realize how much I miss working with 4-H International. They also brough Noriko who is the chaperone to Iowa this summer and who my mom stayed with during her two trips to Japan. She is staying at our house until Saturday. We're definetly busy with two visitors but its fun to show off many local sites and traditions. We're headed to Chicago this weekend to see my grandma and do some more sightseeing.

I've been enjoying sharing my Peace Corps plans with everyone I see but feel like I haven't had any time to work on my own preparations. I'm down to less than 2 months until I leave now!