Thursday, February 24, 2011

Jaguar Reserve

Last Saturday I visited Cockscomb Basin Jaguar Reserve which is about thirty miles from Dangriga. This is the world's first jaguar reserve created in the early 1980s and currently has a population of more than 70 jaguars along with many other animal species. Belize has one of the largest populations of jaguars and other cats in all of Latin America because they have put so much land into protected reserves and national parks.

This reserve is a basin (hence the name) surrounded by the Maya Mountains and hills so its a protected area. One of the mountain peaks is supposed to look like a cock's comb (the head of a rooster) hence the rest of the name. There are numerous trails throughout the reserve so its a great place for hiking through the jungle. I met my friend KC at a small Mayan village outside of the reserve and took a taxi to the visitors center. The village used to be in the park but was moved when the reserve was created. The women have set up a crafts cooperative and restaurant to generate income from the many visitors.

KC and I looked around the visitors center where we learned more about jaguars and then listened to the ranger talk about the different trails. We decided to start with an easy one hour hike that looped back. Somehow we took a wrong turn and kept walking and walking. It started to rain really hard but fortunately we had brought rain jackets and while low in the basin, the canopy actually prevented us from getting very wet. We made it to a small waterfall and pool where visitors often like to swim. In that weather, we decided against it though. We continued hiking on the trail and started climbing out of the basin so got wetter as there was less canopy cover. We still thought we were on the easy trail and couldn't understand how it had already taken us over two hours and how rough and steep the trail was getting. The vegetation was so thick that we couldn't tell how much farther we had but it kept seeming after every turn that we were almost at the top so had to be done climbing. When we were thinking we couldn't go any further, we finally reached the top of Ben's Bluff. The view from there was amazing with the whole basin visible below us and the Maya Mountains on the far side. It was misty when we arrived but cleared off as we ate our lunches. Victoria's Peak, the second highest mountain in Belize and most difficult climb, was visible through the mist in the distance.

We climbed down again and found a sign that showed we were actually on the "rigorous hike" so felt a little bit better about ourselves. We located the "easy nature trail" so finished up our day with a short walk around the basin floor before heading back to meet our taxi and catching a bus to Independence where KC lives. Hot showers were greatly appreciated that evening after a day in the rain. I actually didn't mind the weather since it kept it cooler and added to the adventure.

Its rare to actually see a jaguar since they are mostly out at night and are very good at staying hidden but we did see animal trails, one paw print, and scratch marks on the tree where they sharpened their claws.

The next day we planned to take the water taxi over to Placencia for a day on the beach so were praying for better weather. Thankfully it was sunny and hot so made for a great relaxing day following our strenuous day of hiking. I even discovered that an Italian woman has opened a gelato shop! Placencia is a gorgeous beach and I can't believe I'm only a few hours away.

There are so many great places to visit in Belize, many within an hour or so of Dangriga, and I hope to see as many as possible during my year here. Its a great break to enjoy nature after my week working in an office!

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